Dürnstein and Bidla Buh

In 1979 I bought a record by Georg Kreisler. The Everblacks. There’s a song on it that was already a bit older back then – an “Everblack” – namely Bidla Buh. And there’s a line in it: “Because the Danube is so beautiful near Dürnstein.” Now that I was practically round the corner, I visited the town to finally check it out.

Dürnstein has a rather car-free town centre, so I parked outside and walked in. It’s not a problem, but the stairs to the castle ruins are quite a challenge.

In return, you get a view. And plenty of opportunity to play around with the OM-1II’s GND filter, which was the purpose of the trip. And lo and behold, you even get pictures in which the filter is not unpleasantly noticeable. You don’t always have to demonstrate the disadvantages, but you can also show that the stuff has some potential.

Because as soon as the light is right and you shoot normal things, the OM-1II delivers: every image is sharp, art filter, everything you need. A pano mode would be nice. If possible, one that works.

Ascent to the ruins. Only with good shoes and all that. There’s also a path round the outside, which is easier, but only the tough ones can get into the garden. And if I don’t have to lug any 35mm-format equipment with me, I can do it here….

Dürrnstein itself is now a listed tourist village. This means that when it’s not in season, tourists starve and die of thirst. At least that’s what a nice gentleman told me, who according to him is the youngest inhabitant in the neighbourhood at 51.

There is a small shop outside the season, but it has rather irregular opening hours. Apart from that, the village is firmly in the hands of the drug barons – aka large winery owners – and the monument conservation organisation. Some time ago, there were still three butchers in Dürnstein. Not any more. You could wait for the town to die out completely. The houses are increasingly becoming objects of speculation, sometimes damp up to the first floor, nothing is being renovated because people are afraid of monument protection, sometimes people are simply waiting for the houses to simply collapse.

In the old town there are tourist shops, restaurants, wine bars and a hotel in the old monastery in memory of Richard the Lionheart – Robin Hood – who was imprisoned at the top of the castle – but everything is closed. Completely. The signs with “Cold Beer here” are up, but that’s all.

Of course, it also has its advantages. You can take photos of deserted alleyways. And the courtyard in the monastery without anyone standing around. By the way, if you ever go there – take a look at the roof. There, great importance has been attached to precise timekeeping. Three sundials have been installed – in case one fails. That’s what they call a backup.

So if you still want to go to Dürnstein and don’t want to push your way through the crowds – go there in March, take some photos and bring something to eat and drink.